Thursday, October 7, 2010

Notes on a Bavarian Wedding

In the midst of our fun-filled days at Oktoberfest, came an unexpected treat that will always be one of my favorite memories of our time here: an invitation to a traditional Bavarian wedding. After all the obligatory tourist traps we'd been caught up in at the festival, this was a delightful immersion into the real culture of Bavaria.

The bride, Judith, actually worked for Scott's company here in Munich prior to taking a job with an O&P company in Tampa, FL. She and Scott met when she taught a course he attended while in school and she essentially paved the way for Scott's job opportunity here. Judith and Benjamin, the groom, still live in Tampa but they returned to Munich to exchange vows and we were surprised and humbled at the offer to join them in celebrating their big day. The celebration began at 9 am at the home of Judith's parents. Wedding guests, most of whom were dressed in lederhosen & dirndl, shared a traditional Bavarian breakfast of weißwurst (a veal and pork bacon sausage), pretzels, and beer while a band played Bavarian music (sans the Neil Diamond interlude we suffered through at Oktoberfest, thank goodness). For the first time in a long time, we weren't the only minority given that Benjamin's father, aunt, and best friend, BJ, from Tampa also attended the wedding. We immediately hit it off with BJ and in a strange twist, we discovered that Scott and BJ's paths had crossed over 10 years ago when both were working in New York City. It's a small world, folks! After breakfast, the bride and groom arrived and we all proceeded to the city hall for the exchange of vows. Afterwards, we made our way to a nearby community center where the real fun began. In lieu of a professionally made wedding cake, close friends of the bride had each baked their favorite dessert and the result was remarkable. There were a dozen varieties of cakes, pies, and tarts to choose from and it added the first of many personal touches to the celebration.

One of my favorite customs of the afternoon was plate-throwing. Several family members wrote messages to Judith & Benjamin on small dessert plates and the plates were given to Judith to toss backwards over her head to Benjamin. Depending on what the message said, Benjamin was to attempt to catch or not catch the plates. For example, one of the plates guaranteed 100Euro to the couple if Benjamin was able to catch it. Another promised years of happiness together if caught by the groom. It was a neat tradition and Benjamin managed to catch all of the plates.

Part of the way into the afternoon, I noticed Benjamin carrying Judith's bouquet with him. When asked why he didn't set it down, it was explained that wedding tradition required that the bouquet never leave the hands of bride or groom. If someone besides the couple ever gets hold of the flowers, the groom will be required to host a huge party in the coming days as penalty. Another custom is that of family members producing a skit in satire and celebration of the couple. Judith's family had obviously put a lot of time into this, poking fun at how the couple met and what their life in America was like. It was really funny and entertaining and provided another personal touch to their celebration.



Traditional music, dancing, games, and skits, accompanied by flowing champagne and beer, dominated the scene from about noon until 6 pm. Next, a fantastic dinner of soup, salad, duck and deer was served and afterwards a couple of the guests took the stage to entertain once the band had departed. A husband and wife duo from Mozambique and Cuba, respectively, brought down the house with an hour's worth of talented piano playing and singing. Scott and I are big fans of Buena Vista Social Club and the wife did fantastic covers of several of their songs, in addition some other Latin-American and German classics.

Exhausted by a marathon day of eating, drinking, celebrating, and making lots of new friends, we finally bid farewell to the couple and other guests sometime after midnight. Overall, Scott and I were delighted at the simplicity and charm of the wedding celebration. Weddings in the U.S. can easily take on an aire of competition as brides attempt to out-do their peers with over-the-top decorating, entertaining, wining & dining, etc. I was struck during my own wedding by people who were mortified at my lack of concern for hiring a professional DJ or spending thousands of dollars on floral arrangements, over-priced decor, and wedding planners. I truly identified with and appreciated the simplicity of Judith and Benjamin's traditional Bavarian wedding. Much like our wedding, their focus was the joining of friends and family to celebrate their happy occassion with lots of personal touches but none of the frivolous decor and fuss of most weddings I've attended. It was a true, unrehearsed, not-for-show glimpse into Bavarian culture and we met some of the friendliest, most sincere individuals I've ever encountered. As long as I live, this will stand out as one of my most favorite experiences while living in Europe. Congratulations to Judith and Benjamin and a sincere thank you for allowing us to take part in such a wonderful celebration!

Monday, October 4, 2010

Oktoberfest: 200 Years of the 'Liver Olympics'






Well, the 200th Anniversary of Oktoberfest has come and gone, much to the joy of my bank account and my liver. There really aren't words to describe the level of scensory overload that accompanies a first-timer at Oktoberfest and honestly, one trip just won't do the experience justice...which is why we went four times. The problem with (and the beauty of) the festival is that it is just massive and aside from the obvious beer drinking activities, there is a lot more to see and do. Upon entering the gates, the inner 8 year old in me was ready to drop the family fortune on any number of carnival rides and games. Meanwhile, the inner college kid in me was ready to spend equal amounts on 10€ a piece 1-liter beers. Thankfully, the fiscally conservative adult in me managed to come out on top, for the most part, and the savings account is still largely intact.

Oktoberfest began 200 years ago as a public celebration of the marriage of Prince Ludwig to Princess Therese on October 12. The event lasts 16 - 18 days and opens with a parade including Bavarian music and lots of people in the traditional Bavarian clothing, lederhosen & dirndl. The festival now begins in early September so that festival-goers may take advantage of the longer days and nicer weather of late September. Over 6 million people attended this year's celebration so you can only imagine the level of chaos that reigned both within the festival gates and throughout the city as a whole.

Our friends, Marjio, Andre', and Ergun, joined us from Berlin for the opening day of festivities. We arrived at the entrance gates just in time to catch the end of the parade, the 12-gun salute, and the tapping of the first keg by Munich's mayor at 12 noon. We spent the next several hours navigating the festival grounds with 10,000 of our closest friends and neighbors only to discover that all of the beer tents had filled to capacity by about 9:30 that morning! Beer is only served within the tents at the festival and so we retreated to our favorite beer garden in the city to quench our thirst and headed back to the festival later in the evening. We joined a colleague of Scott's that evening at his table in one of the tents for six hours of chugging 1-liter beers, eating pretzels the size of my head, and singing one of the strangest combinations of music I have ever encountered (traditional Bavarian tunes were always followed by a Neil Diamond or Queen song and then the crowd cheered and drank some more). It was by far the most fun I've ever had. Variations of this scene unfolded a couple more times as we joined Scott's work colleagues in various beer tents over the course of the festival.

Aside from this Bavarian spin on a massive frat party going on within the tents' walls, outside the tents an entirely different spectacle unfolded. As I mentioned earlier, there were literally hundreds of carnival rides and games and I'd have probably pulled Scott onto every one of them if it hadn't been for the massive crowds and the steep prices. We did enjoy a Ferris wheel ride just to get a perspective on the crowd from that height and I consider this 15€ well spent (check out the photo). However, there's just something about throngs of drunk people on spinning rides that quickly loses its appeal for me. Thus, we spent the majority of our non-drinking visits to the festival people watching, eating (everything from candied hazelnuts, roasted chickens to smoked fish, brats, and pretzels), and generally absorbing the sights, sounds, and smells.

All in all, this was an experience neither Scott nor I will ever forget. And whether or not you find interest in chugging a liter of beer or riding over-priced carnival rides, this is a spectacle not to be missed if ever you find yourself in Munich this time of year.